Prince’s Trust in Devon

This week I have been working for Reach Outdoors, with the Prince’s Trust in Devon. We have been with a fantastic bunch of young people, looking at helping them gain confidence, develop team work and leadership and improve their communication skills. all through outdoor activities and a planning and review process. These weeks are always super rewarding (sometimes a little hard work too!), but this weeks group were awesome. Throughout our week with the Prince’s Trust in Devon, we have been walking on Dartmoor, Gorge Walking and Rock Climbing amongst other things. The weather has been unreal, especially for the start of October! Lets hope next week is even half as good! Though it does look like the weather is on the turn…

Climbing in Devon

Climbing with the Prince’s Trust in Devon

Gorge Walking with the Prince's Trust in Devon

Gorge Walking with the Prince’s Trust in Devon

Walking with the Prince's Trust on Dartmoor

Walking with the Prince’s Trust on Dartmoor

This weekend has been spent in Dorset, getting some sunny sport climbing done on Portland. Coming from Pembrokeshire where every trip entails an adventurous abseil into a big crag for some trad climbing, it was great to rock up and do some relaxing sport climbing after my week with the Prince’s Trust in Devon…

Climbing on Portland

Climbing on Portland

 

Climbing in Pembrokeshire

Last week we had a few days off at last! And it was a joy to be out on the crags climbing in Pembrokeshire for fun! As we hadn’t been on the limestone in a while, we spent a few days down there. Initially with Alun, but Bramble also got out of his kayak and came with us one day! Great company and some new places explored, and steep, adventurous routes done!

Climbing at St Govans

Climbing at St Govans

Steep ground Climbing in Pembrokeshire

Steep ground Climbing in Pembrokeshire

Climbing through the Blow Hole

Climbing through the Blow Hole

After a few days personal climbing in Pembrokeshire, I had a great day teaching lead climbing skills to Steve and Nikki. Being strong indoor climbers they picked up all the new skills quickly, and both did their first lead climbs in the Porth Clais area. Amazing weather and good company, hopefully they will both be back out on the cliffs again soon!

Steve on a course lead climbing in Pembrokeshire

Steve on a course lead climbing in Pembrokeshire

After a busy Monday to Friday it was a quick trip to North Wales for the weekend… I was attending a “Train the Trainers” course at Plas Y Brenin. Run by Mike Raine, this course is aimed at those delivering training to candidates going through the national governing body awards, such as the SPA and ML. The goal is to get like minded people to explore different teaching styles and models, using mock clients. An interesting couple of days, and a joy to be in the hills in such amazing weather!

Teaching ML rope work in Snowdonia

Teaching ML rope work in Snowdonia

Coasteering and Climbing in Pembrokeshire

 

This last week has been a good one! The water has been as good as it gets; clear, calm, clean and some good low tides – great for some Coasteering and Climbing in Pembrokeshire! I have been working for TYF as well as getting plenty of climbing in… These September days, once the school holiday crowds have gone, truly are magical in Pembrokeshire…

We’ve had some great days Coasteering at both St. Nons and Abereiddy, with some lovely low tide explores, as well as some bigger swell adventures! Plenty of seals around too, with the pups appearing on the beaches. Be aware if you see any to keep your distance and stay quiet, don’t linger too long as the mums might not come and feed them whilst you’re there…

Coasteering at Abereiddy

Coasteering at Abereiddy

In the "tumble dryer", Coasteering at Abereiddy

In the “tumble dryer”, Coasteering at Abereiddy

 

After a few days in the water I was glad to be on dry land, accompanying a school group on a coastal walk, looking at map skills along with environmental issues, with the fantastic weather giving us awesome views over to Strumble Head, one of my favourite vistas in Pembrokeshire…

Looking over to Strumble Head

Looking over to Strumble Head

A weekend away climbing in South Pembrokeshire completed a really brilliant week! We did some fantastic climbs on Range East, and some new routes, but what will linger in my mind longest is the Lemon and Dill sauce we had at the Stackpole Inn! Amazing and highly recommended! We spent the day in the sun climbing in the Blockhouse Buttress area, slightly off the beaten track (due to it’s long by Pembrokeshire standards 20 minute walk in!), the area contains some fantastic routes, so go check them out!

Climbing on Range East

Climbing on Range East

 

Alun and Sophie following a route at Blockhouse Buttress...

Alun and Sophie following a route at Blockhouse Buttress…

Bank Holiday Weekend Climbing in Pembrokeshire

What a great couple of weeks it has been! I’ve been too busy climbing, working and exploring in Pembrokeshire to write any blog updates, so here is a sum up of the last couple of weeks, and the bank holiday weekend climbing in Pembrokeshire…. The weathers been almost non-stop good, great tides and magical sunsets, great clients and new routes climbed to boot!

We had a great day with Sicco and Hannah, a father and daughter from Germany (who thankfully spoke perfect English…). Hannah was psyched to get on any climb she possible could, and at only 9 shows great promise for the future should she keep it up, whilst dad Sicco had done loads of sport climbing previously – so he cruised his first trad lead climb here on the Pembrokeshire sea cliffs.

Sicco happy having led his first trad route!

Sicco happy having led his first trad route!

We had a day out with some local instructors who have got their SPA assessments coming up. This award lets them take groups of novices onto single pitch crags, a vital stepping stone in the ladder to being a successful outdoor instructor. We went through top and bottom roping, group abseils, and problem solving. We were luck to have some willing guinea pigs come along for the guys to practice on too!

Teaching SPA Skills to Instructors

Teaching SPA Skills to Instructors

It’s almost a tradition now for people to spend the bank holiday climbing in Pembrokeshire, and with the release of the excellent Climbers Club Pembrokeshire guidebooks, we are definitely noticing the area is getting busier, with crags that were relatively unexplored before, now having frequent visits..  Luckily for us we know more secret spots (and whole crags with no routes on!) so we were able to escape the crowds with Si and Elliot on a learn to lead course over the Bank Holiday Weekend…

Seconding a climb in Pembrokeshire

Seconding a climb in Pembrokeshire

We visited several crags on the first day, looking at loads of belays and rope work, gear placements and of course climbing heaps of classic routes, and on the second day, from being relative novices, both Si and Elliot were doing their first trad lead climbs. Great effort guys and thanks for a great weekend with good company…

Lead Climbing Course in Pembrokeshire

Lead Climbing Course in Pembrokeshire

I was lucky to have bank holiday Monday off for a rare change, and was rearing to get out and have a climb, and being super sunny and warm, a dip in the sea. Not many places in the work you can go on what is one of the busiest tourist days of the year, and have the crag to yourself, right by the turquoise sea, watch Porpoises and seals and swim in the warm(ish!) water to cool off as it’s too hot! Magical! Gotta love bank holidays in Pembrokeshire climbing with the cliffs to yourself!

Stunning St David's Head

Stunning St David’s Head

Once the crowds had departed from Pembrokeshire, the weather was still awesome, and the tides perfect for some exploration. We spent the day looking at lead climbing skills at a very unexplored crag near Newgale, with some excellent established routes, great to learn to lead climb on, it should be more popular – but we’re not complaining! We had the pleasure of doing a couple of first ascents during the day, the most memorable being up a pinnacle, with a proper pointy summit necessitating a counterbalance abseil decent. Throughout the day our only company was a couple of seals that watched us pretty mush non-stop… I’m excited to get back here and check out more of the new routes…

Exploring new routes in Pembrokeshire

Exploring new routes in Pembrokeshire

Walking, Climbing and Coasteering in Pembrokeshire…

This week I have been working walking, climbing and coasteering for TYF with the schools they have had staying with them in Pembrokeshire. The week started with a few days coasteering and climbing in the St Nons and Porth Clais area, where the swell proved to be entertaining.. The kids coped amazingly!

Big swell climbing in Pembrokeshire

Big swell climbing in Pembrokeshire

Finally the swell died down to make coasteering far more accommodating! The last couple of days were spent walking sections of the awesome Pembrokeshire Coast National Park, looking at fauna and flora along the way as well as a spot of rock-pooling and scrambling.  The weather was superb and as always with good company… Now I’m off for a month in South America – no matter what far flung places I go to, I always miss Pembrokeshire though!

Walking to Abereiddy Headland

Walking to Abereiddy Headland

 

Sunny Sport Climbing Portland

This weekend I’ve been down in Dorset, working on a “learn to sport climb” course for Freeborn Climbing. We had 5 fantastic people who had varying levels of experience, all progressed massively over the two days. It makes a nice change for me, as we have virtually no sport climbing in Pembrokeshire, so it was great to clip some bolts in the sunshine!

Sport Climbing in Portland

Sport Climbing in Portland

Over the course of the weekend we climbed loads of great routes, initially looking at a focus on belaying, climbing movement and efficient technique, alongside the art of clipping quick-draws!

Teaching threading lower-offs at The Cuttings

Teaching threading lower-offs at The Cuttings

Once the team all had the skills to thread lower offs and felt confidant to lead, we climbed loads of routes to reinforce the skills…

Coaching leading on the sharp end whilst sport climbing

Coaching leading on the sharp end whilst sport climbing

We rounded up the weekend with some problem solving and avoidance. Hopefully everyone will be confidant to get out themselves now and get on the sharp end! Awesome effort in hot weather!\

How to protect an abseil

How to protect an abseil

Tying-off the belay plate

Tying-off the belay plate

 

Multi Adventure in Pembrokeshire this week…

It’s been a very busy week here in Pembrokeshire! I’ve been running a schools multi adventure week on behalf of TYF. I had the pleasure of the company of some great instructors throughout the week which always makes things much easier.. The weather was on our side and the school left with glowing faces despite copious amounts of sun-cream.

Massive thanks to Edgeborough School for being amazing students and a couple of great teachers, making my week easy.

Climbing at Porth Clais

Climbing at Porth Clais

We had a great day rock climbing at Porth Clais, a couple of awesome Coasteers and a some sunny kayaking and surfing. I was asked to deliver a presentation one evening and talked about climbing in Yosemite – I think it went down well, the students asked so many great and unexpected questions. Hopefully they left inspired to go and have some adventures of their own!

Group climbing at Porth Clais

Group climbing at Porth Clais

Clip from the Yosemite slideshow

Clip from the Yosemite slideshow

TFY Adventure climbing…

This week (and the next few weeks), I’ve been working for TYF Adventure with their schools that are visiting Pembrokeshire for an activity adventure week. We’ve been blessed with an unreal week of warm sunshine, and I’ve been lucky to work alongside some great Instructors in some beautiful locations…

A day climbing at Porth Clais was followed by 3 days climbing at St David’s Head. I’ve just been climbing this week but the schools do a bit of kayaking, coasteering and surfing. It’s a busy time in Pembrokeshire – yesterday there were 5 different groups at St David’s Head, luckily the area can accommodate that amount, but it seems the secret about how great Pembrokeshire is, it out…

Abseiling at St David's Head

Abseiling at St David’s Head

View walking into St David's Head

View walking into St David’s Head

Sunny Sea Cliff Climbing in Pembrokeshire

Sunny Sea Cliff Climbing in Pembrokeshire

Climbing at Porth Clais

Climbing at Porth Clais

Walking to St David's Head

Walking to St David’s Head

Now for an afternoon and weekend Coasteering… Lets hope the sea is as warm as the rock was this week!

 

Awesome week Climbing and Surfing in Pembrokeshire!

It’s been one of those weeks that just makes you super happy and content. Some great work with great people, in one of the Worlds best locations for Rock Climbing and Surfing, plus plenty of time off to get out Bouldering, Climbing and Exploring for myself!

A blustery week made for some challenging conditions on Tuesday for the group from GRIP that we were climbing with at Wolfs Rocks with Coastal Adventures, a really top group who challenged themselves and pushed their comfort zones in difficult conditions, and so many of them achieved so much more  than they believed they could – a great satisfying and rewarding day…

Climbing with GRIP at Wolfs Rocks, Pembrokeshire

Climbing with GRIP at Wolfs Rocks, Pembrokeshire

The following day the merciless winds had thankfully died down and we spent the day at the incredible Whitesands Beach, Surfing with Dragon Activity Guides, with a group of super keen school kids, who having all been surfing before, were competent enough to get loads done and really be able to enjoy the properly amazing weather! The waters warming up and with a view like this I could spend all day everyday on the beach!

Surfing at WHitesands

Surfing at Whitesands

We managed to get a load of climbing in over the next few days, first up was a quick afternoon hit at Caerfai, one of the best Sandstone slabs in the St Davids area, offering some great routes, especially in the hs-vs category, with some harder test pieces too. A short walk in and a wicked view too!

Climbing at Caerfai

Climbing at Caerfai

Next up we headed South to climb on the Limestone of South Pembrokeshire. I hadn’t been here in ages so it was ace to get to the wonderful Becks Point and Fishermans Ledge, for some relaxing easy angled, non serious slab climbing. One of the best aspects of climbing in Pembrokeshire (apart from the 5 guidebooks worth of climbing within half an hour of my house!!) is the great variety of rock, we have such a diverse range giving us all sorts of climbing…

Climbing at Becks Point

Climbing at Becks Point

We spent Sunday again around the Sandstone of the St Davids area, climbing at Porth Y Fynnon and Porth Clais. With some really great single pitch sea cliffs this is one of the best venues to make your first steps sea cliff climbing. Some of the areas best routes in the v diff-hs grade range are here, with plenty of trickier ones. Get the tides right and you can get so many wonderful routes done in a day… A great week with great weather, always leaves me psyched for the summer ahead!

Climbing at Porth Y Fynnon

Climbing at Porth Y Fynnon

Team ascent of Red Wall, Porth Clais, Pembrokeshire

Team ascent of Red Wall, Porth Clais, Pembrokeshire

 

Basic Climbing Starter Kit

I get asked all the time on courses “What do I need to start Climbing on my own?”. The biggest thing you need is the basic skills to put a harness on, tie in to a rope, and belay safely. Once you can do all that, and are sure climbing is for you, there really isn’t that much kit you need to start out indoor climbing….

So, once you can correctly answer the usual “tick Yes or No” questions a wall might ask you on their disclaimer forms, lets get shopping! Below is a picture of all the kit you need to start climbing indoors, bottom-roping, using the “in-situ” ropes at the climbing centre:

Starter Climbing Kit

Starter Climbing Kit

Harness – There are a plethora of different types out there, Men’s/Women’s, “zip-lock buckles”/double back through buckles, fully adjustable/fixed leg loops etc.. etc… The 2 most important things to consider are – 1. Is it the right size? and 2. Is it comfy? If these 2 boxes are ticked, then you’ll be alright, by the time you want to do more adventurous climbing and perhaps need a different harness, it’ll be time to get a new one anyway. All the manufacturers have to pass the same safety standards, but there can be a difference in quality, so don’t necessarily go for the cheapest one.. Spend some time in a shop trying a few on, have a hang in them (most good shops will have a hang point) to get a feel of how comfy they are. Always follow the manufactures recommendations with care, maintenance and retiring kit…

Shoes – The same goes for shoes, with a dazzling array out there for you to choose from. Ideally we want a tight pair, with our toes right up in the end of the shoe, but in a way that is comfortable to wear for prolonged periods. The shoe should not hurt! Our feet are complicated, delicate things, so don’t ram them into tight shoes… Top tip – cut your toe nails regularly! Avoid a really technical pair for your first shoe, try loads on as they are all different shapes and sizes, and when you feel your climbing is coming on enough to warrant a more technical pair, then I’m sure you’ll have worn out your first pair and will be needing a new pair anyway!

Belay Device/Carabiner – You’re best of getting a nice simple belay plate type device, such as the brilliant DMM Bug (pictured), and an HMS (often called Pear Shaped) Carabiner to accompany it. There are lots of different fancy devices out there, which are great for certain jobs, but perhaps not all – we’ll look at these in another article. So for now, nice and simple, and these are the best all round devices. All the usual manufactures produce them, they will all work! Watch you don’t accidentally get a specialist one that’s designed for thinner ropes – you wont be using those indoors where the ropes will be 10mm+.

Some Carabiners can come with the addition of a plate or clip that stop them swivelling round on your harness (e.g. – DMM Belay Master) and these are great for preventing cross loading (Come on a course with us to learn what that means!), but if you learn to belay really well and are vigilant, then I’d go without them. Belaying as a skill is easily done wrong, to learn it well is an art, and a life-saver.

Chalk-Bag – To stop your sweaty hands slipping off! Whatever you like the look of. Get a chalk-bag belt or a piece of cord to tie it around your waist. It’s useful to use a chalk ball with a small amount of loose chalk powder, if you’re somewhere really warm liquid chalk is great, especially for sport climbing and DWS… NEVER clip it on to your harness with a carabiner – this puts a big hard metal object at the bottom of your spine, and there have been cases of people being paralysed after falling off and landing on it…

Next we’ll look at the additional kit to go Sport Climbing outdoors….

If you’re looking to buy any kit, if you’ve attended one of our courses we can offer you a 15% discount at the excellent V12 in Llanberis – one of the best climbing shops around.