Winter Climbing 2018 round up…
I’ve been making an effort this season to do loads of winter climbing as I work towards my MIC award. As well as personal winter climbing I’ve been trying to line up “mock” clients, people that perhaps are summer climbers but want to learn about winter climbing. This isn’t paid work, as I’m still working towards the award, but it’s all proved amazing fun and led me to explore loads of mountains and crags I’ve not been to!
My first climbs of 2018 were with Max and Luke who were acting as mock clients for me, we did Dinner Time Buttress on Aonach Dubh and Golden Oldie on Aonach Mor. The latter being a route I’ve gone in to do twice but failed to find it in poor visibility – not this time! We had glorious weather and managed to get up the route ahead of the crowds, the guys swung leads as I coached them through some of the finer points of winter climbing…
Max on the final exposed ridge on Golden Oldie.
The low level ice came good after that, so I spent a few days on Beinn Udlaidh, where a short-ish walk in leads you to a great ice venue! Dec and I did Sunshine Gully, which was so good (and one of the few routes in good condition) I went back and did it with Megan and Colin (mock clients) the next day. I went back for a third day in a row with Alex and we climbed the classic Quartzvein Scoop. A great few days on the ice!
Alex on the classic Quartzvein Scoop on Beinn Udlaidh
I was in the Cairngorms working after that, and with a day off and the ice still good down low, I went to Lurchers crag. I’d heard a few routes were in condition there, and decided to do what I think was Central Gully. I was on my own and the ice was a lot steeper than I’d anticipated, which led to me giving myself a bit of a talking too afterwards…I’m not sure if I was on a different route or the line was just in a steep condition. Either way, it would have been much more enjoyable with a friend and a rope!
Back over West after that as a thaw followed a heavy snowfall, which saw Joey and I wading in to the Sron na Lairig. I’d seen this route in the new “one axe climbs” book by Gary Smith, and despite the sogginess, it didn’t disappoint! Hard work but worth it, a great Mountaineering line tucked away from the crowds…
A quick hit back over east as some of the team had a meeting over there, we had the afternoon out on Mess of Pottage, where Joey and I found a busy crag. We did Jacobs ladder and then abbed back down it as the crowds cleared before doing Hidden Chimney. It’s a line I’ve done a few times and it never dissapoints…
Joey abseiling back down Jacobs Ladder to do Hidden Chimney.
We had a mega early start the next day and still weren’t anywhere near first in line for Tower Ridge! I’d never done this classic before, and taking Joey and Rach up it was a pleasure. We saw all sorts of schenanigans going on up there, and had real concerns over some people’s safety. We threw a couple of direct variations in the mix to make it a tad trickier and escape some queues, but by tower gap we just had to wait in line – thankfully the weather was good! A very British bit of queueing was going on, and some French came along and just climbed through everyone. Pretty rude and dangerous and not good for public relations! We popped to the summit before heading down to the van and finally the Clachaig where we demolished some burgers! A memorable first trip up Tower Ridge…
Me on the Eastern Traverse of Tower Ridge…
Next up was another classic Ben Nevis Ridge I hadn’t done, this time taking Powell up Castle Ridge. We had great conditions, awesome views and the route to ourselves – a stark contrast from the previous route! Powell did ace on his first roped winter climb.
Ben and I had a couple of days out on the ice after that, first up was Salamander Gully on Beinn and Dothaidh, warm and sunny out of the wind and great but drippy ice! The next day we climbed Taxus with the icefall finish, on the same hill but on a different crag… Great conditions for some winter climbing with a good mate!
Ben winter climbing on Beinn Dothaidh.
My last day in Scotland for a couple of weeks and Ben, Rach and I headed to Beinn Udlaidh, Rach led her first winter pitch of ice then we swung leads up the great Doctors Dilemma. Shame to have to go as the cold spell and the “Beast from the East” was hitting, which froze up some serious low level ice!
In South Wales for a week or so, the cold weather meant I got to climb some ice down here, easing my Scottish withdrawal! I popped out on my own to see if my local Preseli hills of Pembrokeshire would yield any winter climbs, and managed to get the first ascent of a lovely (but thin!) 30ft III 4…. I wonder when it’ll be in condition next?!
Pembrokeshire ice climbing!
Snow made travel in South Wales pretty tricky, so after a Pembrokeshire ski! Joey and and I manage to get across to the Brecon Beacons for what must have been the last day of winter down here… We took a long walk in from the Storey Arms to stretch the legs, and climbed Torpantau falls. A great climb, a little damp to say the least though! So thankful that I was able to scratch my winter climbing itch down here before heading back to Scotland!
Joey winter climbing in the Brecon Beacons, Torpantau Falls…
My second spell in Scotland was briefer than I’d have liked, and I ended up doing more skiing than climbing! We attended an American Avalanche Association level 1 avo Course, which was really useful for my winter walking work, personal climbing and skiing. There was some amazing powder days had, but also some brutal, windy, cold, hard days, when climbing wasn’t really an option anyway! I had the luck of finishing the season on a high, when Ben, Dec and I headed over the back of Cairngorm to climb on Hells Lum, somewhere none of us had ever been…
It was a blue bird day, the crag to ourselves – the conditions were ace, warm in the sun, views for miles and mile and miles – and great company! With the three of us swinging leads up Kiwi Gully, there was always belay ledge company, and we topped out with huge grins on our faces! Not a bad end to winter….
Winter climbing on Hells Lum, Cairngorms
