Avalanche O’clock on Meggy

Want to know what 2 days of warm weather and some torrential rain do to the snowpack? Then look on… 1 word – AVALANCHE!

We were heading out to Meggy in the hope of checking out some of the avalanche activity from the last 2 days. Knowing there would be some interesting conditions we had already decided on an easy day out and to avoid going onto any snowy sections. This decision was rightly backed up by the view from the carpark, a huge full depth avalanche on the hill above, almost 300m wide.. Plenty more were visible from the road too.

Large full depth just above the farm

Large full depth just above the farm

We left the Meggy car park amid glorious sunshine, t-shirts and sunglasses were the order of the day, but not for long! To be fair, the weather was a vast improvement on the last couple of days – in that the winspeeds were under 100mph…. Once up in the Coire conditions got, well, pretty grim. People say the Cairngorms are the windiest place in Scotland, well I reckon it’s here! Windspeeds were definitely stronger than forecast, and I cast my mind back to my last visit to Meggy – having to resort to crawling on all fours following a bearing in a white out, the wind intent on not letting me stand…

Anyway, back to today. There were folk out, someone being overly optimistic with some skiis (ski-touring conditions it aint), 4 guys even coming down having been snow-holing – well, they are certainly “braver” men than me, it must have been dire in the thaw in a snow hole!

Have a look at the picture below of a couple walking into the debris zone of a huge, deep wet snow avalanche, from below you could clearly see the fracture lines and hundreds if not thoushands of tonnes of soaking wet soggy snow ready to go… You can see the couple outlined lower left for scale. Sensible decision?

Spot the people bottom left in the snow.....

Spot the people bottom left in the snow…..

It was everywhere, every aspect that had snow on and at most altitudes, there had been significant slides. We had it all, huge full-depth avalanches, massive wet snow avalanches, surface sloughs, monumental cornice collapse, smaller point release avalanches, even what looked like crevasses and seracs!

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I like to think the fact we have had so little human involvement with avalanches this year is due to more information, better understanding, more people taking a more serious attitude into the hills, and being better equiped, certainly after the terrible winter we had a couple of years ago. It would be horrific if that happened year after year, and fortunately it does not, but there were definitely some people perhaps stepping over that line into the danger zone today. And why? There was nothing to climb, all slush and rubble, skiing would have been rubbish, and the weather on Meggy was at times awful….

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Lots of people have been wondering what conditions for climbing would be at the minute, well the pictures below of the Post Face etc give you a bit of an example of how black it all is, and what the cornice collapses have done. The weather took a nose dive whilst in Coire Adhair, so sorry for the blurryness of the photos!

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Scotland so far….

Each Winter in Scotland seems to have certain characteristics, I remember a few years ago it was the “Windy Winter” a couple of years ago was it the “No Snow Winter”, this year it seems to be the “Winter of Giant Thaws”. Apparently this Saturdays staggering rise in temperatures, is due to a blast of air from the Caribbean coming in on the jet stream… Well it still doesn’t feel Caribbean up here in Aviemore right now!

Winter Skills in the Cairngorms

Walking into the Northern Corries

There has been a big amount of snow fallen, but being Scotland these snow falls have coincided with strong winds, meaning snow cover on the East side is poor, though it is good in the West. That is until this Giant Thaw sets in! Why does the weather never play ball to our plans?! I guess it’s one of the reasons that leads to Scottish Winter Climbing being so rewarding, and being such a great training ground!

Carn Mor Dearg Arete on a winter skills week

The CIC hut on a winter skills week ascent of Ben Nevis

The fluctuating weather aside, we have made the most of the conditions with our Winter Mountaineering courses, as well as plenty of personal climbing and skiing…

winter time skiing in scotland

Skiing in Scotland

 

In the month or so we’ve been up, there has literally been 2 properly great days of weather, this has led to some testing conditions for our clients! Fair enough the preceding month was staggeringly great, with no wind, perfect ice, sunshine (what’s that?!), it just so happened that we weren’t here then! (yes we were in the Himalaya so can’t complain too much..)

So, to keep us motivated whilst the weather does what it does up there (how much snow will we be left with on Sunday when the weather improves?!) – here are some pics of the last few weeks to inspire and remember… (and yes the weather IS going to get better – but were soon to depart to sunny Pembrokeshire!)

Winter walking in Glencoe

Winter skills week in Glencoe

winter walking course in scotland

Nearly on top a blustery and cold Ben Nevis during a winter skills week

night navigation off ben nevis this winter

Finishing in the dark after a long day on the CMD Arete, Ben Nevis, the culmination of a great week of winter skills

winter skills week scotland

Great conditions for a winter walk!

Snowy in scotland

On a very bluster Carn Mor Dearg Arete during a winter skills week

winter mountaineering ceirngorms

Looking in to the Northern Corries, don’t be fooled by the sun – the weather was brutal!

Abseiling off a snow bollard

Winter Skills in Glencoe – Snow bollards

Digging a snowhole in Scotland

Digging emergency shelters on a winter skills week in the Cairngorms

winter skills ropework

Gully Climbing in the Cairngorms